Timeless Foundations, Evolving Details

Men's suiting has always moved more slowly than the rest of fashion — and that's largely a virtue. A well-made suit should last a decade or more, so chasing trends too aggressively is rarely wise. That said, understanding what's current helps you make choices that feel fresh rather than dated, especially when investing in a new piece.

Here's what's defining the direction of formal menswear right now.

The Return of Relaxed Tailoring

After years of slim-cut suits dominating menswear, a more relaxed silhouette has firmly re-established itself. This doesn't mean shapeless — it means suits with a little more room through the chest and thigh, a lower button stance, and softer shoulder construction. The result is a suit that looks deliberate, not dishevelled.

If you're ordering now, consider going slightly less fitted than you might have five years ago. A suit that moves with you rather than constricting you will always look and feel better over a long day.

Earth Tones and Muted Palettes

Navy and charcoal remain the backbone of any suit wardrobe — and they always will. But alongside them, earthy tones have grown significantly in popularity:

  • Tobacco and camel: Particularly strong in autumn and winter collections.
  • Olive and sage green: Increasingly used in both casual and formal contexts.
  • Warm grey and stone: A softer alternative to charcoal that works across seasons.

These tones pair well with brown leather shoes and accessories, making for a cohesive, grounded look.

Double-Breasted Suits Are Still Going Strong

The double-breasted suit had a major revival and hasn't lost momentum. The 6x2 button configuration (six buttons, two to fasten) remains the most popular, offering a structured, confident silhouette that suits broader chests especially well.

For first-timers to double-breasted styling, start with a classic navy or dark grey cloth. The structure of the jacket is statement enough without adding a bold fabric on top.

Texture Over Pattern

While checks and stripes remain classic choices, there's growing appreciation for textural fabrics that add visual interest without pattern:

  • Tweed and herringbone for cooler months.
  • Hopsack weaves for warm-weather suiting with a slightly casual, open texture.
  • Fresco wool — a hard-wearing, slightly rough-textured cloth that holds a crease beautifully and breathes well.

The Three-Piece Suit's Quiet Comeback

The waistcoat (vest) is appearing more frequently in both traditional and contemporary contexts. A well-fitted three-piece suit communicates effort and formality without requiring a tuxedo — making it an excellent choice for weddings, important business meetings, or any occasion where you want to make a lasting impression.

Modern interpretations sometimes feature a contrasting waistcoat — a different colour or fabric from the jacket and trousers — for a layered, expressive look.

Suiting Beyond the Office

Perhaps the most significant shift in menswear is where suits are now being worn. Suits increasingly appear in settings that were once the territory of casualwear: gallery openings, dinner dates, weekend events. This "dressed-up casual" attitude has given rise to suit combinations like:

  • Suit jacket worn with dark jeans and a rollneck.
  • Suit trousers with a plain white T-shirt and loafers.
  • Unmatched blazer and trouser combinations in complementary tones.

The takeaway: a suit — or parts of one — is no longer confined to formal contexts. Investing in quality suiting pays dividends across a much wider range of occasions than it once did.